Laser Hair Removal

Epilation performed by laser was performed experimentally for about 20 years before it became commercially available in the mid 1990's. Laser and light-based methods are sometimes called phototricholysis or photoepilation.

In addition to lasers, some light-based epilators use a xenon flashlamp which emits full-spectrum intense pulsed light (IPL) . Treatment with this device is sometimes popularly referred to as laser hair removal, though the device is not a laser per se.

The primary principle behind laser hair removal is selective photothermolysis. Lasers can cause localized damage by selectively heating dark target matter in the area that causes hair growth while not heating the rest of the skin. Light is absorbed by dark objects, so laser energy can be absorbed by dark material in the skin (but with much more speed and intensity). This dark target matter, or chromophore, can be naturally-occurring or artificially introduced.

Hair removal lasers selectively target one of three chromophores:

Carbon , which is introduced into the hair follicle by rubbing a carbon-based lotion into the skin following waxing (this lotion is an "exogenous chromophore"). When irradiated by a Q-switched Nd:YAG laser, the carbon causes a shock wave capable of mechanically damaging nearby cells. This method has been abandoned since it does not cause permanent loss. (It has been replaced with the long-pulsed Nd:YAG laser which targets endogenous melanin in the follicle.)

Hemoglobin, which occurs naturally in blood (it gives blood its red color). It preferentially absorbs wavelengths from argons, and to a lesser extent from rubies, alexandrites, and diodes. It minimally absorbs the Nd:YAG laser wavelength. Hemoglobin is not a primary target for laser hair removal.

Melanin is considered the primary chromophore for all hair removal lasers currently on the market. Melanin occurs naturally in the skin (it gives skin and hair its color). There are two types of melanin in hair: eumelanin (which gives hair brown or black color) and pheomelanin (which gives hair blonde or red color). Because of the selective absorption of photons of laser light, only black or brown hair can be removed.

Any laser light beam intended for topical use can only penetrate skin tissue two millimeters deep. As such, there has been great controversy surrounding the laser industry claims to what most people think of when they hear the word "permanent". Many class actions lawsuits are settled out of court so the damaging information is never made into public record.

The dermal papilla is the only appropriate target of destruction, as it it is the only substructure of the hair shaft which can reproduce a new root system, and therefore a new hair shaft. The dermal papilla is located at a depth of 7-8 millimeters for coarse hair, and so is beyond the reach of laser.

The laser light beam, however, does a great job of vaporizing large areas, just not permanently. Challenge your laser tech to sign a "plain English" money back guarantee if you want to find out for yourself.

No form of laser is capable of permanent hair removal without scarring. At most, 5 percent of hair in a given area can be removed which adheres to the common usage of the word "permanent", usually because the hair root is not very thick in diameter, or have any pigment, and is therefore within the two millimeter range of the laser.

This is why laser technicians are required by law to use the term "reduction".

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